You can find these parts and all other mech things here :
https://kprepublic.com/collections/xd84
LED strip : https://bit.ly/2KAEEJ1
Soldering tutorial : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY
The Loyalist – Pinecrest by The Loyalist https://soundcloud.com/why_you_look_a…
Creative Commons — Attribution 3.0 Unported — CC BY 3.0
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/b…
Music promoted by Audio Library https://youtu.be/fSirXT6Mf-o
Official website : https://www.taekeyboards.com/
Google+ : https://plus.google.com/+TaeKeyboards/
Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/TaeKeyboards/
Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/taekeyboards/
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Hi..can you check tecware phantom rgb tkl infuture..thanks
I just bought one of these cases on mechmarket last week, then went and bought a KBD75 Type C PCB since I want a split Spacebar and split right shift. I like having an FN key set up to the right of right shift so I can have the arrow keys like on an HHKB.
I’m working on an Anne pro mod that is supposed to create such an underglow, just comment if anyone’s interested and I’ll make a tutorial
When will you do review for drevo blademaster??
Is it safe to safe if my xd84 PCB isn’t detected by windows the first time I plug it in it’s DOA?
Interesting
“Tae” on Philippines means “shit” so it channel name is literally “shit keyboards”
Daddy
I wish it didn’t have a logo on top
XDDDDDD
Man! that is a great looking keyboard, do you think that the case could fit a drevo gramr84? thanks!
looks pretty dope
Nice
rainbow keyboard, i wonder when hahaha
Where could I get that green surface that you are using for covering table when soldering ? I love it so much
little bit of asmr right there when you tap it
really like how your videos are so easy to understand for a newbie like me 😀
The 96 key suffers all these same problems plus many of it’s own(Other than LED’s, it uses 2 rows instead of 1).
1. Although the body has extra backplate mounting points, the aluminum frame for the back acrylic attachment does not have holes drilled to use them. This causes the middle of the back plate to sag and feels terrible. I fixed it with double sided tape so it doesn’t sag, but that makes disassembly a royal pain.
2. As much as I appreciate the gesture, they allowed for far too many switch configuration options, especially around the arrow cluster. So many, in fact, it is nearly impossible to mount the switches straight as both the plate and the pcb allows the switches to wobble freely in that area.
3. Since the board is completely swiss cheesed in the right modifier and numeric cluser area, and the bezel leaves a huge gap between the caps and the bottom row, the LED under board to the right of keyboard cat shines right into your eye, in two different places. Between the modifiers and to the right of the right arrow(if you use the same configuration I did).
Other than that, I love the keyboard, but if I didn’t like the layout so much, I wouldn’t like the keyboard at all. Too many flaws. It needs thicker bezels, more mounting points for the back plate, and fewer options in the arrow cluster area. It’s poor design to place the backlight LED right behind a hole for an optional switch mount location.
Edit: Also, mine came with acrylic, and of course, the acrylic cracked on one of the screw holes. Not enough for it to not function however.
can u leave a good link for the soldering tutorial?
I’d love to build a board but I’m not confident enough to solder
200$ isn’t so budget especially when you have to build it yourself… DAMNIT!! i want this also!
Do you think it’s possible to just put metal feet on the bottom of the glass instead of using the flip out feet.
I only want the blademaster.
Yes, YES! It’s a Tada68 withan extra row. Don’t even add anything else, this thing is perfection. Now where did I leave those coalshovel navy heavy switches?
Dayum that’s some keyboard case if Ive ever seen any
*EEKS DEEE*
what about if the pcb don’t have additional to put led strip, can I soldered from the existing led underglow?
xd rawr
What if the back plate is made out of glass 😉
xD